“220 V” is the “nominal” voltage. All voltages fluctuate depending on all sorts of factors, but should stay within a certain range of nominal. In the USA most utilities follow the ANSI C84 Voltage standard. 220 V is what electricians refer to it as. Your utility probably calls it “240 V”.
It’s functionally the same, it’s not fake in any way.
It’s just a transformer that has 240V across it with a tap in the middle, and we take the two halves of it to make the two 120V lines. Combining the two 120V is really just using the whole transformer.
You’d see exactly the same curve on an oscilloscope.
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Will that work for US split-phase “220” where the voltage is 110v on each leg? I was always worried that would fry the PSU since it’s not true 220V.
Yep
It’s not? I guess it’s more like 230-240 but it should be fine,
“220 V” is the “nominal” voltage. All voltages fluctuate depending on all sorts of factors, but should stay within a certain range of nominal. In the USA most utilities follow the ANSI C84 Voltage standard. 220 V is what electricians refer to it as. Your utility probably calls it “240 V”.
It’s functionally the same, it’s not fake in any way.
It’s just a transformer that has 240V across it with a tap in the middle, and we take the two halves of it to make the two 120V lines. Combining the two 120V is really just using the whole transformer.
You’d see exactly the same curve on an oscilloscope.